Kottayam

Dubbed the land of letters, latex and lakes, Kottayam Kerala for most first time visitors is a sleepy sort of place, which ‘the world seems to have bypassed’, as one resident put it. Kottayam city, the district headquarters and a major urban centre, does not have the bustling industriousness of Kochi or the cultural cosmopolitanism of Kozhikode. But look beyond the surface and you will discern the reason behind this seeming dullness. It stems from a quiet confidence in the fact that Kottayam is a land of many accomplishments, events from the past having bestowed on it a certain aura.

Most people of known of Kerala having become a totally literate State. But not all are aware that it Kottayam that took the initial step by becoming the first ever fully literate municipal town in India. Today 80 percent of the books published in the state come from Kottayam Kerala. It is also the nerve centre of Kerala’s newspapers, with five major dailies being published from here. Ironically, despite all these intellectual firsts to its credit, Kottayam’s international recognition now comes form the attractions of Vembanad Lake and the backwaters of Kumarakom, geography and the tourism having bestowed upon Kottayam an appreciation it had lost some decades ago.

Best time to visit

Equatorial climate, hot and humid. Heavy rains are from June to September. October to February is cool. However, the months of July and August are interesting months to make a tour to Kottayam because of the heavy rains that set in most of the evenings. Accompanied by thunder and lightning, they are awesome, especially if you are in plantation country, surrounded by thick vegetation and the hills.

Getting There

By Air
The nearest airport is the Cochin International Airport, then a two hour journey by road (65 km)

By Rail
Well connected to all major cities of the country with daily train services. The Kerala Express connects it to New Delhi, the Kanyakumari Express to Mumbai and Bangalore and the Trivandrum Mail to Chennai, Kottayam Station.

By Road
Main central Road, that connects Thrivananthapuram to Angamaly. Kottayam is one hour’s drive from Alappuzha on NH 47. Kottayam’s KSRTC bus stand on TB Road has services from all main cities.

Sights and Attractions

Thazhathangadi

A quiet place with none of the din and bustle it had about two centuries back, Thazhathangadi- by the river Meenachil, was once the most important place in Kottayam Kerala. The administrative capital of the Thekkumkoor kings, Thazhathangadi was strategically vital for it had the river nearby and Vembanad Lake not too far off, waterways essential for trade. Today, if you will tour to Kerala in Thazhathangadi, you will see the houses, that merchants of yore built. Made largely of wood-some two storied- they are excellent examples of the architectural of that time. There is also a Thazhathangadi mosque, said to be 1000 years old, and with no visible changes to the original edifice. It is a compact wooden structure with three roof layers and gopurams atop. The painted carvings on the top façade are unique.

Thirunakkara Temple

After Thazhathangadi lost its political importance; it was Thirunakkara that evolved as the hub of Kottayam. The temple is believed to have been built by Thekkumkoor kings, and its grounds are important landmark located in the heart of the town. The sanctum sanctorum of the temple, repaired in 1956, is covered with pictures from the epics. Three festivals are celebrated here of which the last one is the most important. Folk art like Mayilattam (peacock dance) and Velakali are presented in the temple grounds in the evenings. A major attraction is the all night kathakali performances. In connection with the festival, the municipality of Kottayam conducts an all India industrial exhibition every year and is a must watch place when on a Holiday Tour to Kerala.

Valiyapalli / St Mary’s Knanaya Church

Valiyapalli (big church) came into existence in 1550. Built entirely of wood, it was demolished in 1577 and a new one built of stone. The crosses- a small one on the north side and a big one on the south, are sculpted on stone slabs and originate from Persia. Both the crosses have inscription in Pahalavi, the official language of the Sassanian dynasty in Persia. There is yet interesting granite cross on the eastern side of Valiyapalli. Very tall, the cross had been made of four granite pieces and has provisions for pouring oil into it whereby it can be lit up. Before electricity came into being, this cross was lit up on important days.

Adityapuram Sun Temple

Situated in a small village nearer to Muttuchira, this is perhaps the only sun temple in Kerala. Travel from Kottayam on the Ettumanoor- Vaikom road and take a detour from Kuruppanthara. Adityapuram is just 4 kms from here. A unique feature of this temple is the rakthachandan (a medicinal herb) that is distributed as parsadan.

Cheriyapalli

On a Holiday Tour to Kerala., one must visit the church of Cheriyapalli. This is said to be one of the few old churches that still exists in its near original state. Built in 1579, extensive restoration work was carried out and completed in 1993 without marriage its architectural beauty. In keeping with the time it was built, when the Portuguese held reign, this church has a Boroque style façade to it. The porch, added in the early century, has pillars made of granite, modeled after temples.

Activities

What to buy

Kottayam in Kerala is a big producer of spices and condiments. Eco-friendly rubber products are also worth buying.

KK Road has a number of jewellery and Sari showrooms. Located in Arafa towers, Kasavukada is a popular shop for saris and dress material.

When you are on a Holiday Tour to Kerala you can also pick up the traditional cream colored, gold- bordered Kerala saris in places like Seemati, Narmada Parthas. There are also famous jewelers like Bhima and Brother Jewellers.

Where to Eat

Food in Kottayam has a distinct Syrian Christian flavor to it. This is the best place to try out dishes like Meen Mappas and Kodampuli Meen. Karumpumkala Family restaurant is famous for its seafood. Meenachil, the restaurant opposite the Malayala Manorama office, is a good place to eat, as are the restaurants in Hotel Aida, Ambassador Hotel and Lake Village resort. Ann’s Bakery at bakery junction and Best bakery, opposite the collectorate have good sweets and baked sweets.